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The aesthetics world is evolving at breakneck speed, and if you get whiplash from simply scrolling your TikTok FYP or reading about new treatments, topicals, and injectables, well, same. The quest for better skin—however you define that—is always evolving, and we’re seeing it play out in real time from our phone screens as practitioners share their favorite treatments and beauty adventurers document their appointments for all to see.
Outlandish beauty treatments have always gotten major attention; the flashier or more out-there the name, the more likely we are to pay attention to it, especially in such a crowded market. It’s no wonder, then, that so-called “salmon sperm” treatments have gotten so much buzz lately. A few years ago, Allure spotlighted salmon DNA-based treatments as an emerging aesthetics trend overseas; in countries like Australia and South Korea, the ingredient has been used as an injectable to encourage cell and tissue regeneration. It was only a matter of time until similar fish-centric treatments caught the eye of aesthetics-curious Americans like Kim Kardashian and plenty of other influencers—but not all salmon treatments are created equal or approved for use on your face.
There are two different types of salmon DNA: polynucleotides (PN) or polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), explains Roy Kim, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in San Francisco. Despite the nickname they’ve been given, you’re not smearing pure, straight-from-the-fish salmon semen all over your face; as Allure previously reported, PN and PDRN are simply chemicals extracted from salmon sperm.
PDRN is the only salmon DNA product that’s approved by the FDA and legal to use in the United States—but only topically. As New York City-based board-certified plastic surgeon Jennifer Levine, MD, explains, this topical-only use is because the FDA has only approved PDRN as a beauty product rather than a drug. Dr. Kim points out that it can be found in over-the-counter products like serums and masks for use at home. Otherwise, you might encounter it at the dermatologist’s office; some practitioners use it as a follow-up to irritating skin treatments like microneedling or laser. When PDRN serum is applied after microneedling, which creates small wounds or punctures in the top layer of the skin to encourage collagen production, the thinking is that it will boost hydration and skin elasticity. These treatments, which are similar to getting PRP, are often called “salmon sperm facials.”
“If you’re in the US and someone is about to plunge a needle filled with salmon DNA into your skin, that’s more than fishy… that’s a huge red flag.”
Dr. Levine offers topical PDRN treatments in her practice because these topical salmon DNA products, she says, are “very similar to human DNA and can help with skin quality, luminosity, and texture.” As Allure previously reported, studies have shown that polynucleotides can be beneficial for tissue regeneration and to stimulate collagen production.
PN, on the other hand, is one of several products that fall under the trendy "skin boosters" category—basically, shallow injections meant to infuse hydration for glowier skin. PN is only delivered via injection because its molecules are too large to be effective otherwise, Dr. Kim says. These treatments (which are considered a drug) are currently not approved by the FDA, meaning it’s currently illegal to perform any kind of salmon DNA injection in the United States.
PN and PDRN injections are legal in other countries around the world, however, and are particularly popular in Singapore, South Korea, and Australia. The procedure promises to stimulate collagen, improve fine lines and wrinkles, and make your skin look super glowy. (It also got a reputation for being very painful, because it involves getting hundreds of injections that leave a series of bumps that last a few days as the skin heals.) Dr. Kim says that while PN is “generally very safe and injectable,” he believes the FDA hasn’t approved it because it’s “extremely concerned about injecting animal DNA,” in part because of potential biological contaminants. When Allure reached out to the FDA for comment on the matter, a spokesperson told us, “The FDA maintains a list of approved dermal fillers, and there is no listing for Rejuran [a brand-name salmon DNA injectable] or any salmon DNA–based injectable skin booster.”
It’s easy to get confused about which salmon DNA procedure you’re signing up for, especially if you’re not well-versed in the aesthetics world and aren’t totally clear on the difference between injectables and microneedling, for example. To add another layer of confusion, these treatments can go by different names from provider to provider, including “salmon skin facials,” “salmon sperm injections,” “PDRN facials,” and Rejuran. But if you’re in the US and someone is about to plunge a needle filled with salmon DNA into your skin, that’s more than fishy… that’s a huge red flag.
“If something isn’t FDA-approved, there’s a reason, and the reason is your safety,” says Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut. “FDA approval isn’t just a rubber stamp or a passing trend—it’s the difference between a medically sound treatment and a potentially dangerous experiment.” According to Dr. Gohara, FDA approval, which can take years to achieve, requires a product or treatment to go through rigorous safety, efficacy, and quality testing.
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“Lines can easily be crossed when a product is available overseas and practitioners can get their hands on it online, even if it’s not approved for use in the United States.”
Injections require the utmost care because they penetrate the skin, which heightens safety risks for patients. “When it comes to injections—especially near delicate areas like the eyes—we’re not talking about trying a new lip gloss. We’re talking about inserting substances into living tissue,” says Dr. Gohara.
Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica, who has served as a principal investigator in many FDA trials, says that approval is essential for aesthetic tools and technologies—and that definitely includes PN and injectable PDRN. “The reason that this is important in this case as an example is to be sure that the product, sources, harvesting, handling, and processing meet key criteria,” she explains. “We are dealing with a raw material product that can cause allergies, contain contaminants, or have a host of risks that need to be assessed.” This can also include the concentration of nucleotides coming from a living species, which can vary. “Standardization and regulation is vitally important before introducing [this product] to market as an injectable.”
How, then, are some American providers performing salmon DNA injections without FDA approval? Lines can easily be crossed when a product is available overseas and practitioners can get their hands on it online, even if it’s not approved for use in the United States. “Unfortunately, it’s easier than you’d think,” explains Dr. Gohara. “People can skirt the rules by importing unapproved substances from other countries or ordering products online.” (That is, unless someone reports them to the FDA for administering unapproved treatments. Regular folks can also order injectables online and inject themselves, which is dangerous, to say the very least.)
Injectors may also “repurpose ingredients meant for topical use” as injectables, which, again, is a really bad idea. “Just because it looks injectable doesn’t mean it’s safe or legal to put under your skin,” Dr. Gohara says.
You may have heard of doctors using neuromodulators and fillers off-label, but the same theory does not apply to salmon DNA products. “While there are many injectable products that have off-label uses, they are still approved for injection somewhere,” explains Dr. Levine. “We cannot take a product approved only topically and decide to inject it. The approval is a significant investment both from a financial and time standpoint.”
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Risks from a non-FDA-approved injection can include blood clots, nodules, allergic response, and inflammatory reactions, adds Dr. Levine. “Injecting a product that has not been run through that process exposes the patient and practitioner to tremendous risk,” emphasizes Dr. Shamban. Even if the product gets approved in the future (or if you travel to get the treatment in a country where it’s legal), there will be risks to consider. Because it’s derived from fish, salmon DNA sounds like a “natural” treatment, which can imply safety to some, but salmon-based treatments can cause irritation, allergic reactions, and breakouts, says Dr. Gohara.
Microneedling followed by topical, FDA-approved PDRN also comes with some risks, including introducing bacteria or triggering inflammation. “Imagine giving your skin tiny paper cuts—now imagine rubbing fish protein into those cuts,” Dr. Gohara explains. “That’s why sterility, proper technique, and post-treatment care are non-negotiable.”
“Imagine giving your skin tiny paper cuts—now imagine rubbing fish protein into those cuts. That’s why sterility, proper technique, and post-treatment care are non-negotiable.”
Red flags abound in the aesthetics world; some of the biggest ones to look out for when seeking a safe salmon DNA treatment include vague ingredient lists, pressure to act fast with “limited time” deals, and treatments offered in non-medical settings, Dr. Gohara says. “Legit procedures will always be clear about what’s in the product, how it’s applied, and whether it’s FDA approved.”
Doctors do think there’s potential for more FDA-approved salmon treatments in the future. “Salmon injections are used in other countries with good results in certain cases. I think they are best when combined with other regenerative products,” says Dr. Levine. If they were to be approved for injection purposes in the United States, she’d like to see “differences in formulations of the different companies, as well as decide where I was comfortable injecting it on the face,” and, of course, she wants proof the injections would provide “substantial results.”
Word of mouth and social media can be really persuasive; if you’re seeing tons of videos of people with glowing, radiant skin saying they owe it all to salmon sperm, it’s natural to want to try it for yourself. But for every video praising the service, there are more from board-certified dermatologists and plastic surgeons saying to hold off and wait for more research along with the FDA’s blessing. “If you're booking a service based on a TikTok trend, take a breath and ask, ‘Who’s performing this? What’s the product? Is it approved for this use?’” Dr. Gohara says. “When in doubt, check with a board-certified dermatologist. Your face is not the place for guesswork.”
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